Trulli scrumptious Puglia

When a friend asked me if I’d like to go to Puglia, I hesitated. Not because I didn’t want to spend time with her (quite the reverse), nor because I had something else planned (other than work of course). No. I procrastinated for all of thirty seconds because I hadn’t got a clue where Puglia was.

It turns out that it’s a region in the far south of Italy – essentially the heel to the country’s boot. Julie travels there a lot as a tour manager for Great Rail Journeys. On this occasion, though, the only person she’d be managing was me.

The historic port of Monopoli was our first base. Once a small maritime settlement on the banks of the Adriatic, the old town’s narrow streets, ancient castle, remaining ramparts and an impressive Baroque cathedral are testament to its intriguing past. A past that now blends seamlessly into a present full of modern-day commercial bustle and elegant tree-lined squares.

Walking is flat and easy – meaning I chalked up enough daily steps to convince myself I was offsetting the delicious Italian cuisine on offer. Not that any excuse was needed to enjoy locally sourced specialities like burrata cheese, orecchiette pasta and panzerotti (savoury turnovers) at one of the many outdoor street cafes. Gustavo’s near the age-old harbour became a firm favourite, due in no small part to an aperitif selection that proved a great introduction to freshly made, flavour-packed regional offerings that certainly got my taste buds tingling.

I soon learnt no visit to Puglia would be complete without a trip to Alberobello and its surreal trulli dwellings. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, there are more than 1500 of the unique conical roofed homes and businesses in the town – perfect for those of shorter stature like me. 

The story goes canny residents built their trulli from stone, without the use of mortar, so they could quickly be dismantled should a pesky tax collector turn up. Given how closely packed the trulli are in Alberobello, I can only assume that said pest didn’t turn up often.

To get a feel for what living in a trullo is like, Julie took me to the town’s museum. Built around 1797, it features a ground floor kitchen, living room and bedroom, plus another windowed space upstairs that currently houses a loom. Wandering around before heading to trulli shops, restaurants, houses, bars and even a trullo church provided useful insight into a compact existence that continues to this day.

Trains are a very cost-effective way of travelling around Puglia, so we took one to Polignano a Mare, a five-minute rail ride from Monopoli. With dizzying drops to the sea, the town has become a mecca for cliff divers – so much so that it’s an annual venue for the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series. The views are wonderful and a combination of whitewashed alleyways, lovely beaches, great hospitality and a rich cultural heritage gives the place oodles of charm and character. 

Like everyone else, I couldn’t resist a photo of me in front of Domenico Modugno – the man who wrote and performed ‘Volare’. Polignano was apparently the song’s inspiration and its singer, third in the Eurovision Song Contest and a Billboard chart topper, is now immortalised in stone on its seafront. Quite the striking tribute.

Our second and final accommodation base was Bari, the region’s capital. A large port city, it’s another effortless blend of both age-old and recent – from traditional pasta making in the old quarter to designer shopping in the new. 

A wander round the twelfth century Basilica di San Nicola was, from my perspective, unexpectedly magical.  The basilica was specifically built to house the relics of St Nicholas, a reputedly kind and generous bishop who inspired the Santa Claus myth. In 1087, Bari fisherfolk stole his remains from Myra in Turkey and entombed them in the basilica’s vaulted crypt. 

By all accounts it’s very rare for the shrine to be opened so I couldn’t quite believe it when I watched a priest doing exactly that for someone who was ill. Like other people present, I seized the moment, joined a line, kissed the reliquary and hoped for a miracle. He is Father Christmas after all.

Our last day was spent in Trani. Once a leading trading centre, the city’s port side restaurants and air of laid-back elegance have turned it into a tourism destination of choice. With a cathedral, Jewish quarter (home to one of the oldest synagogues in Europe), public gardens (well designed for shade), medieval walkways and thirteenth century castle, there’s plenty to see and do in that mooching around, holiday sort of way. A very relaxing jaunt, and the large ice cream enjoyed on the harbour front was a scrumptious added bonus.

With the longest coastline in Italy, Puglia proved a delightful revelation. Staying in the Valle d’Itria, I’ve only seen a small part of it and now want to see more. Our visit was in March when the weather is changeable (yes, I bought an umbrella) so beach-going wasn’t our bag but, bordered by the Adriatic and Ionian seas, spring and summer have much to offer sunworshippers.

Julie was off to Puglia again five days after saying goodbye to me at Gatwick, this time with 39 people to manage on a tour.

How I wish I could have joined them – now I know where Puglia and its dolce vita are!

Sue flew from Newquay to London Stansted and London Stansted to Bari via Ryanair. Her return from Bari to London Gatwick was by Easy Jet, and from Gatwick to Newquay Eastern Airways. Accommodation in Monopoli’s old town was a private rental and, in Bari, Sue stayed at the family-run Hotel Adria Julie is a tour guide for Great Rail Journeys.