Nancekuke

When it comes to secrecy, Nancekuke can claim top billing.  Covering several hundred acres of land between Portreath and Porthtowan, few people in the 1950s and 60s had any idea that the former RAF station was playing a major role in Cold War politics by producing Sarin – a notoriously lethal nerve agent.  From 1954 until 1956, scientists were quietly going about their business there manufacturing tons of the odourless liquid that could, once inhaled, kill within minutes. When that production ceased they turned their attention to riot control agents like CS gas, developing about 35 tons of the chemical cocktail until 1976 when a defence review recommended the transfer of all such work to the Chemical Defence Experimental Establishment Porton Down in Wiltshire.

Walk the coastal path between Portreath and Porthtowan today and you will pass the barbed wire fence that still protects the base from intruders.  Officially classified as a remote radar site parented by nearby RAF St Mawgan, the base enjoys a superb cliff top position that doubtless makes it very useful from a defence point of view.  Long gone are the times when castles and fortresses were built in locations that commanded excellent views – now concrete bunkers and highly sophisticated technology help keep our country safe.

‘Nance’ comes from the Cornish word ‘nans’ meaning valley and the main entrance to RAF Portreath (it reverted to its World War II title when its chemical warfare days were over) is accessed from a no through road that climbs through trees from the B3300 below.  According to Magna Britannia^[1], there was once a Nancekuke Manor that was owned by Lord de Dunstanville – he also owned property at Tehidy.

Drive up Lighthouse Hill in Portreath, park in the free car park at the top and walk towards Porthtowan.  You can peer through the fence to see what look like largely redundant utilitarian buildings whilst the vista to your left is simply breath-taking.  Magnificent coastal scenery juxtaposed with the defences necessary to preserve it.  Wild, natural beauty side by side with some of the infrastructure on which our peace depends.

Useful info

·       Sat Nav: TR16 4RA

·       Sensible footwear is highly recommended for the coastal footpath

·       The cliff edges can be sheer so keep your dog on a lead.

·       There is a free cliff top car park.

·       Walking the coastal footpath is not recommended for those with impaired mobility.

·       There are public toilets, cafes and shops in Portreath and Porthtowan.

Did you know?

In the nineteenth century, Portreath was one of Cornwall’s most important industrial ports.  Ore mined in Camborne, Redruth and Gwennap was transported there on the Devoran to Portreath mineral tramway for onward shipping to South Wales for smelting.

Time for tea

Chapel Porth Beach Café is the place to sample Cornwall’s famous hedgehog ice cream – a deliciously indulgent treat that is topped off with a good dollop of Cornish clotted cream and hazelnuts.  Enjoy it sitting on the beach in the National Trust-run cove or walk off the calories with a ramble up the cliff path.

What else?

Porthtowan may not be the prettiest of Cornish villages but its beach and setting are outstanding.  Thanks to powerful, ‘hollow’ waves, it’s a great place for bodyboarding and surfing (with lifeguard supervision during the summer) and there’s plenty of space on the sand for extended family picnics.  The beachside Blue Bar and a small assorted selection of shops and cafes provide additional refreshment – with a fee-paying car park nearby.

What’s nearby?

·       Blue Hills Tin Mine – Cornwall’s only working tin producer. Find out how this small family business extracts the ore and turns it into beautiful jewellery and tableware. Sat Nav: TR5 0YW. 

·       Porthtowan Beach, a very popular place for bodyboarding and surfing.  Fabulous sunsets when the weather is right. Sat Nav: TR4 8AW 

·       Fishing Cove, accessed from the coastal path from Portreath to Godrevy Head.  A good place to find seals but not an easy climb down. Sat Nav: TR27 5EG.