Kingsand and Cawsand

Overlooking Plymouth Sound, the only thing separating Kingsand from Cawsand is a small stream that these days goes virtually unnoticed. Insignificant as it might seem, however, that stretch of running water was, for centuries, the boundary between Devon and Cornwall.  You can still see what used to be the border on the front of one of the picturesque cottages today – set against a blue-painted wall, the old demarcation line is black and the house itself is appropriately named Devon-Corn.

The conjoined villages are a delight to wander around with their narrow streets leading down to small, sandy beaches and far-reaching views across Plymouth Sound.  There’s a regular foot passenger ferry from Cawsand to Plymouth Barbican for those wanting to take to the water and a good selection of cafes, art galleries and quirky shops for those who prefer to remain land-based.

Whilst Kingsand and Cawsand are historic, scenic gems set against a backdrop of lush woodland that descends steeply to the sea below, their location on Rame Peninsula places them squarely in what is often referred to as ‘Cornwall’s forgotten corner’.  It’s all too easy for visitors to the county to bypass the area as they drive further west and for day trippers to seek out more familiar hotspots - yet the long narrow strip of headland jutting out into the English Channel has some fascinating history and memorably beautiful views. 

Given their coastal location, it’s unsurprising that KIngsand and Cawsand boast a past that is inextricably linked to both fishing and smuggling.  Many of the tunnels reputedly used to bring in contraband goods have been sealed up but the unevenly shaped walls of homes, fish cellars and inns built hundreds of years ago tell secret tales of their own.

It was in the 10^th century that the Anglo Saxon king Athelstan decreed a county division that saw Cornwall begin in Cawsand.  In 1844 Devon was finally pushed back to the other side of the Tamar - meaning, of course, that when eating a cream tea in Kingsand it’s no longer acceptable to spread the cream first!

Useful info

• Sat Nav: PL10 1PA

• There are well-signed long-stay, pay and display car parks in both Kingsand and Cawsand.

• Restricted access for dogs on Cawsand Beach from Easter to October.  Kingsand Beach is dog-friendly all year round.

• Village facilities include toilets, shops and cafes.

• Suitable for wheelchair access.

Did you know?

During World War II, a large number of fairly basic wooden chalets were built along the Whitsand Bay coastline by Plymouth residents wanting to escape their city’s bombing.  Now hugely sought-after for their position, they can change hands (when the rare opportunity arises) for hundreds of thousands of pounds.

Time for tea

The Old Bakery in Cawsand dates back to 1760 and is just a stone’s throw from the sea.  Sourdough bread is baked on the premises every day from scratch – using 100% organic ingredients. A great place for homemade breakfasts, lunches, cream teas, snacks and artisan takeaway pizzas. 

What else?

Plymouth has long been an important maritime asset.  To help protect it from possible invasion, a series of fortifications and a road to connect them were built from Cawsand to Tregantle above Whitsand Bay in the 1860s. One of these was Polhawn Fort which once housed a small gun battery that was never used in anger and is now one of the UK’s most popular, exclusive-use wedding venues. Little wonder given its magnificent, seaward-facing location.

What’s nearby?

• Mount Edgcumbe House and Country Park.  Set in magnificent gardens, the estate is open to the public.

• Antony House, a superb early 18^th century mansion that is now owned by the National Trust. 

• Rame parish church.  First consecrated in 1259 and situated close to Rame Head, it famously has no electricity and is lit entirely by candles.  Sat Nav: PL10 1LG